Art 304

Radical Rectangles

Research and Response

            What inspired my design most, after reading the article was Jacob’s use of stripes going horizontally across the body. I knew I wanted the garment to be form fitting on the body but I was not sure how to accomplish the fit with squares and rectangles. The article made me realize if the garment was broken into different sections at the crucial areas of the body such as the bust, waist, and hips, then I could achieve this tighter fit. After our previous project inspired by the geometric designs I knew I wanted to try a full one piece again but with shorts to save on time. Like many of my designs before I tend to gravitate to the concept of female power which I noticed was also a topic that came up in the reading. Until my sister was born when I was nine years old I was the only girl in a family of two brothers and all male cousins. Most out my time was spent running around with the boys and playing with plastic army figures or Legos. Very often I was made to feel like the lesser gender in an ocean of boy so I have always felt very strongly about how women are treated compared to males. Because of this I tend to use more pants than skirts or dresses. Also I was and still am a big climber and I feel skirts and dresses greatly limit a person’s mobility. With all this in mind my only issue was how am I was going to get a nice fit in the crotch with square pieces and not have it come out looking too box shaped? I continued to research outside of the article but there was not any particular designer that inspired any idea for my shorts dilemma. However, when searching for square and rectangle designs I kept getting a lot of different quilting patterns. I went through many patterns that used stripes going in all different directions and eventually seeing stripes going perpendicular from each other turned on a brain light bulb. I got the idea to use a stripe that could go from the front waistline over the crotch to the back waistline and I could add square panels to go around the side of the legs. Next I used some old crochets squares and a stripe I had laying around my room to make a mock pair of shorts which came out looking more like a diaper. They were also way too short with the side panels ending right at the crotch so I came up with the idea to add a band across the bottom to give it more length. For the areas that need to be covered such as the bust and crotch area I used a simple stitch to eliminate any gaps that could reveal what was underneath. I used the same stitch on the shoulder band because I felt it needed to be strong so it could help keep up the garment. For the waist and back of the bodice piece I used a mesh stitch to show off a little skin where I could afford to do so and to cut down on the amount of yarn I needed. Another reason for using this stitch on the waist was to give more stretch for the height of the torso so it could be more flexible depending on the person wearing it. For the shorts side panels I was originally going to use a simple stitch so viewer could not see through it however the stitch is a lot more time consuming so I decided to use an extended simple stitch. This worked out a lot better because it gave the panel a better stretch ability which could be warped to fit the crotch better. With the inspiration from Jacobs and the quilting patterns I feel I accomplished the design I set out to do and it came out a lot better than I expected it to.

Rectangle stretches

Rectangle diagram

Rectangle FrontRectangle back

No Waste

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Cut Diagram

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Origami

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Raglan Sleeve

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Swatch 1: Of all the designs this one is the only unisex piece so I chose teal which is not gender specific. The black causes the teal to stand out more.

Swatch 2: This design is meant to be very casual and comfortable for sitting around the house or even sleeping.  I chose a fabric that is light weight and comfortable. The white emphasizes the purple gives the shirt and more casual feel.

Swatch 3: This design is meant to be wore on a casual day so this swatch is comfortable and stretches well for movement.

Swatch 4: The white and black have a dramatic contrast which would  accentuate the points in the design.

Swatch 5: I chose a fabric with a print on it because I thought it would make the dress a little nicer than just casual wear.

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Lantern Dress

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Swatch 1: The stiffness of this fabric will keep the shape of the lantern design and the plaid design will emphasize the curve of the pattern.

Swatch 2: This fabric is even more stiff compared to swatch one and the larger plaid design will contrast well with the curve across the bust line.

Swatch 3: This fabric is thick which will make it more durable and the stiffness will hold the shape at the hip. The print on this fabric has long vertical lines that will emphasize the length of the legs.

Swatch 4: Of all the swatches this one is the only one with out print. I feel the bodice of this shirt should not be so stiff so I would use interfacing on the sleeves to hold the shape.

Swatch 5: Like swatch 4 this fabric is not as stiff and would need interfacing along the curve. It would be interesting to play around with the grain line on the lantern sections to see how it contrasts with the top section.

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Skirt: Complex Style Lines

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Asymmetrical Darts

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Diamond Inset Bodice

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